Our World

There are places in the world that have been at the center of history for thousands of years and others that through a convergence of circumstance rise from nothing to find great importance. Melaka until the 15th century was a small fishing village but geography began to transform it into the most important trading center in all of Asia. The first arrival of Portuguese ships then made it Europe’s mainline to the new and amazing products of the East. Over the next four centuries Melaka grew and developed as successive European empires won and lost control over it and the ever burgeoning trade with Asia. The core of the city remains from the 18th century and has been designated as an UNESCO world heritage site.

We had tried to visit Melaka on a previous trip to Malaysia but had been stymied by a holiday season that booked out every available means of getting there.Singapore however offered an easy four hour bus connection to Melaka so we had no problem booking the trip this time. The bus was quite comfortable but as in obligatory here in Asia it provided entertainment on video screens and through peakers at every seat. Our feature for the trip was Megapython and Gatoroid a film that was truly as “amazing” as the title. Suppose it is nice to see that in the era of technological wonders in the cinema that someone is still making films like they did in the 1950’s.

We had hoped to see some interesting glimpses of life in the Malaysian countryside but that didn’t prove possible. The good news is that the main road system is the best we have seen anywhere in southeast Asia roughly comparable to the interstate highway system in the USA. Of course, like the USA system, it avoids all contact with people and glides you through the countryside with monotonous views of trees and fields. The destination has become far more important than the journey, a fact that travelers must accept as progress.

A visit to Melaka left us with two very different and opposing impressions. As expected we found that the UNESCO designation was well deserved in that the city’s 18th century layout and structures are well preserved The exception is the old Portuguese fortress from the 16th century which the British decided to almost totally destroy when they captured the city in the 18th century. One of the fortress’ gates was spared for some inexplicable reason. Throughout the area stores, galleries and restaurants are well integrated into the historical setting. The river that winds its way throughout the city has walkways and boats that offer respite from the traffic on the small streets. The river also offers home to an attraction that surprises the visitor. Large swimming lizards (up to 2 meters long) often emerge from the river and slither along the shoreline. Assuredly harmless they are not something you want to inadvertently step on. Circulating through the city are also colorful trishaws covered in artificial flowers hauling visitors from sight to sight. In the evenings their battery powered lights create a Disney like atmosphere.

The second impression may be explained by the fact that the vast majority of Melaka visitors are from Malaysia and come here for a short holiday. The historic district may lure them here but commercial development has descended on Melaka to provide them with the shopping experience. Signs are posted at the boundaries of the historic zone to reassure the concerned that the massive shopping malls have not officially encroached on the UNESCO sight. These malls literally cast a shadow over the heritage sights and blatantly promote themselves. It is fairly obvious that these malls have devastated the small businesses that used to occupy the historic zone. Apart from the malls the shops sell cheap Chinese made souvenirs that appeal to the Malaysian market but hold no interest for other travelers.

Our quest for vegetarian food in our travels is often difficult. Virtually all local restaurants here in Asia avoid serving all but the most basic vegetarian option (stir fried vegetables and rice). Some tourist oriented restaurants will offer something that they imagine some will want (Elvis Presley’s favorite sandwich), but they generally fail miserably to provide true vegetarian dishes based on the local cuisine. With the help of a great website (HappyCow.com) we found a vegetarian restaurant in Melaka that maybe our most favorite place in all our travels. Ten years ago a Malaysian Chinese woman began selling vegetarian food at a street side stall. The innovative and quality food she served was so good that eventually she was able to open a real restaurant. We spent three days eating at the Man Yuan Fang Vegetarian Restaurant and getting to know Jin, the owner and cook. Our sincere regret is that we had to leave having only sampled a small portion of her dishes and herbal teas. On our last night Jin brought us additional items to sample as she didn’t want us to miss them. Our offer to all is that when in Melaka eat at Jin’s restaurant, if you aren’t totally satisfied let us know and we’ll refund you for the meal.

Melaka is well worth visiting but should maybe it is best visited soon before what is most noteworthy isn’t swallowed entirely by the shopping malls. Watch out for those lizards.

[note the last picture in the report –taken from the deck of a gunboat at the Maritime Musuem-might be a good strategy for historical preservation of Melaka]